VeggieTalk

I’m still on my Middle Eastern food kick. I’ve been thinking about making a vegan version of shakshouka, a very simple dish of scrambled eggs with onions, peppers, and lots of tomatoes, ever since my brother ordered it in a café during our visit to Jerusalem. Only one change needs to be made—silken tofu replaces the eggs.

This is one of those super simple dishes that, with the right ingredients, is amazingly tasty. It’s common to both Israeli and many Arab cuisines. With the abundance of delicious tomatoes in season, this is the perfect time to make it. I accompanied it with a rice and lentil dish that did not complement it very well, so I’m still working on a better menu for this. I think some sort of potato dish would be nice, and some sort of green salad without the redundancy of more tomatoes. Hummus and baba ghanoush and pita would be most welcome with this kind of meal as well.

Tofu Shakshouka

4 to 6 servings

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 large onion, finely chopped
• 1 medium green bell pepper, diced
• Two 12.3-ounce package firm silken tofu, finely crumbled
• 4 large or 6 medium tomatoes, diced (about 2 pounds)
• 1 teaspoon sweet paprika
• Pinch of turmeric for color
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• 1/4 cup minced fresh parsley, optional

Heat the oil in a large skillet. Add the onion and saute over medium-low heat until translucent. Add the bell pepper and continue to sauté until both are golden.

Add the tofu, tomatoes, paprika, and turmeric. Stir together, then cook over medium heat for 6 to 8 minutes, or until the tomatoes have softened. Season with salt and pepper, stir in the optional parsley, and serve.

Variation: Some traditional recipes include garlic and parsley; add a few cloves of garlic with the bell pepper if you’d like a garlicky version.

I simply can’t believe I’ve gone through most of the summer without this little trick for keeping cut herbs fresh longer. Longer than in the fridge that is. Just put the stems in a glass or clean vase with a little water. I just forgot about this and instead I’ve been wrapping herbs like basil, parsley, cilantro, etc., in a little paper towel, then in a plastic bag. They get smushed and scrunched and after a couple of days, either dry out or get slimy. No matter what, herbs are perishable, and even in the glass I hope to use the basil and parsley (freshly harvested today at my CSA farm) by tomorrow, or Thursday at the latest. At least the leaves will still be springy and green!

Jill Yarnall, of New Heritage Cooking, has chosen me to be this week’s Veggie Hero. You can read the mini-interview at New Heritage Cooking. And while you’re there, you can brows the Veggie Hero archives. I’m in such good company. Thank you, Jill!

This was one of those rare days when I had time to be in the studio making Art with a capital A. That’s my other life—I’m an artist and an art graduate student (a rather old student, though) who makes strange work that’s hard to define. Not the kind of things you’d hang over your couch. But that’s another story, and another life. The point here is that 5:00 rolled around and there was very little produce in the house, having been cleaned our by hoardes of company.

Fortunately, Tuesday is my pick-up day at the CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) farm my family belongs to. I had no idea what to make for dinner tonight, a state in which I normally don’t like to find myself, but which is part of the fun on pick-up day, as the meal is dictated by what produce is available. I love the fact that I can get just-harvested organic produce not a mile from my home; that’s the beauty of CSAs.

Here’s what I brought home this evening: Everyone got to take 4 pounds of tomatoes (and there was a variety from the classic beefsteak to several heirloom types; the yellow plum tomatoes were a bit disappointing, though); plus there were all kinds of pretty eggplants (they all taste the same to me, whether they are the purple or white or even these striped purple and white kind), lots of peppers, basil, and potatoes. Zucchini and cukes seem to be on the wane, so we didn’t get as many of those today. I also like to buy some locally made organic bread that’s sold at a table each week. This time I picked up half of an onion focaccia, which is actually made of little sections that pull apart like miniature rolls—very appealing, and delicious, too.

So with what was before me, I decided to make a cold tomato-coconut soup. I’ve been thinking about this combo for some time now—I love making instant soups in the summertime—cool soups that need no cooking at all. This one is not at all like the classic Indian tomato-coconut soup, but an on-the-spot concoction. Let me know what you think. Unfortunately the picture came out lousy so I won’t post it. Use your imagination—it’s kind of a pink bisque, with some colorful garnishes in the center.

Fresh Tomato-Coconut Soup

6 servings

• 2 pounds ripe flavorful tomatoes, coarsely chopped
• 2 scallions, coarsely chopped
• 2 to 3 tablespoons fresh dill or cilantro leaves
• One 14.5-ounce can light coconut milk
• Juice of 1 lime, or more to taste
• 1 teaspoon natural granulated sugar or agave nectar
• 1 teaspoon sweet paprika
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

For topping:

• 1 large yellow tomato, finely diced
• 1/4 cup finely diced red bell pepper
• 1/2 cup finely diced cucumber
• 6 to 8 fresh basil leaves, cut into strips, or more, to taste

Combine the tomatoes, scallions, and dill in the container of a food processor. Process until pureed, then transfer to a serving container.

Whisk in the coconut milk, lime juice, sugar, paprika, salt, and pepper. Cover and let the soup stand, either at room temperature or refrigerated for 30 miinutes or so to allow the flavors to blend.

To serve, ladle the soup into bowls, then place a little of each of the topping ingredients in the center of each. Serve at once.

Today, we decided to take a break from our usual Potato and Tofu Hash Browns/ Israeli Salad brunch and revisit an older Sunday tradition of pancakes. However, of late, my younger son Evan has been subtly hinting that my pancakes are kind of uncooked on the inside. So, I looked into some alternative recipes and settled on one from the currently wildly popular Vegan with a Vengeance by Isa Chandra Moskowitz, a book I’ve been meaning to use more often.

One of the many pancake recipes in the book is the stripped down version, descriptively titled “Pancakes.” The only changes I made to the recipe were to use spelt flour instead of the all-purpose called for, and I cooked them in a little Earth Balance on the griddle instead of the oil called for in the recipe. MMMMM, these were good, just the right flavor and texture, cooking to a perfect golden brown quickly without leaving the inside raw. Now I will have to try some of her other pancakes, which include Banana-Pecan, and Chocolate Chip.

The sauce, however, is mine, and here is how I made it: Combine 1 cup fresh blueberries with 1/4 cup water in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer and cook until the blueberries burst. Dissolve 1 tablespoon cornstarch in a little water; Pour into the sauce pan and cook for just a minute longer, until thick. Remove from the heat. Stir in 1 pint ripe strawberries (sliced), and if you have it, one perfectly ripe peach or nectarine (peeled if you prefer). Sweeten to taste with a little agave nectar or maple syrup.

I can imagine that this sauce would be delicious on ice cream (Soy Delicious, or even some mango sorbet, for us vegans) as well.

We have a lot of friends and family over during the summer. I love making summer meals for company because they are so easy and informal. Usually I make some sort of protein dish and three or four salads or side dishes. Sounds like a lot, but I often spend no more than an hour to an hour and a half to make everything, adhering to my philosophy of keeping things simple and using the most flavorful and fresh ingredients I can find. Then I just put everything on the counter and let everyone make up their own plate to take outside.

My friend Sylvia and her family were over this past Sunday, and here’s what we had: Tofu and potato hash browns; a roasted vegetable platter (front); quinoa tabbouleh; homemade hummus; an apple slaw that Sylvia made (in the red bowl, sorry it can’t be seen that well); some fresh breads, including olive bread; and since she has young kids, some pasta with margarine—you can never go wrong with that!

I’ve already given the recipe for the Tofu and Potato Hash Browns in an earlier post, so here are the roasted veggies and tabbouleh:

Roasted Vegetables with Sun-Dried Tomatoes

6 or more servings

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
• 1/4 cup dry white wine
• 1 teaspoon salt-free seasoning blend
• 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
• 2 long Japanese eggplants, sliced
• 1/2 medium zucchini, sliced
• 1/2 medium yellow summer squash, sliced
• 1 medium green bell peper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into rings
• 1 medium red bell pepper, cut to match green pepper
• 1/3 cup oil-cured sun-dried tomatoes, cut into strips
• 1 tablespoon oil from the dried tomatoes
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• 2 to 3 ounces mixed baby greens

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.

Combine the oil, vinegar, wine, seasoning, and oregano in a small bowl and stir together.

Combine the eggplant, zucchini, squash, and bell peppers in a large mixing bowl. Pour the marinade over them and toss together.

Transfer the vegetables and marinade to a foil-lined roasting pan. Bake for 25 minutes, stirring after the first 10 minutes and then every 5 minutes thereafter, or until the vegetables are tender and lightly browned (make sure to wear a long oven mitt for stirring!).

Remove from the oven and transfer back into the mixing bowl. Stir in the dried tomatoes and their oil. Season with salt and pepper.

Line a large platter with the baby greens. Arrange the roasted vegetables over them. Serve at once, or let cool to room temperature before serving.

Quinoa Tabbouleh with Pine Nuts

6 or more servings

• 1 1/4 cups quinoa, rinsed in a fine sieve
• 2 medium ripe tomatoes, diced
• 1/2 cup halved yellow cherry or grape tomatoes
• 2 scallions, thinly sliced
• 1/2 cup minced fresh parsely
• Juice of 1 lemon
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• 1/3 cup pine nuts, toasted on a dry skillet

Combine the quinoa with 2 1/2 cups water in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer, then lower the heat. Cover and simmer gently for 15 minutes, or until the water is absorbed.

Transfer the quinoa to a serving container and allow to cool until room temperature.

Add the remaining ingredients and toss gently until well combined. Serve at room temperature.

OK, this is my last post on the Israel-Europe trip, then it’s back to the present moment, a place in which I spend very little time. Amsterdam is host to a number of Indonesian restaurants (Indonesia was once a Dutch colony), and we were informed that a rijkstaffel (“rice table”) meal would be a memorable experience. For rijkstaffel, one pays a set price for the number of people; a big bowl of rice is served with lots of little dishes. We dined at Long Pura, Rozengracht 46-48. The boys were especially keen on the golden sautéed tofu on skewers with a thick, really rich peanut sauce (we had to get seconds on that one—see the dish at center, top with the magenta orchid).

Once home, I just had to make that one. I tried to faithfully reproduce the flavors of the sauce, though I’m sure that the following recipe is not authentic. But if it tastes good, and it’s easy and quick, that’s what matters to me. I cut extra-firm tofu into triangles, blotted very well, then sautéed it in a very small amount of oil (no need for too many added calories, as I’m sure the peanut sauce has plenty!). Once the tofu was cool enough to handle, I threaded it onto skewers, and on each plate, I placed one skewer of tofu on a small bed of cooked bean-thread noodles, and piled on the sauce. It got raves from the family and brought us briefly back to Amsterdam!

This sauce can be used to top sautéed tofu or tempeh, and it’s also good with noodles.

Rich Peanut Sauce

Makes about 2 cups

Look for Thai chili paste in the international food section in supermarkets and natural foods stores. I use the Thai kitchen brand.

• 1 cup crunchy natural peanut butter
• 3 tablespoons reduced-sodium soy sauce
• 2 1/2 tablespoons lime juice
• 1/4 cup natural granulated sugar
• 2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger
• 1/2 to 1 teaspoon Thai red chili paste

Combine all the ingredients in the container of a food processor with 1/2 cup water. Process until smoothly combined.

Transfer to a small saucepan and heat until at a gentle simmer. Cook over low heat for 2 minutes, stirring frequently Add a bit more water if too thick.

Serve warm or at room temperature over tofu, tempeh, or Asian noodle dishes.

I don’t go anywhere without a list of veg restaurants; it’s kind of a security blanket. But there are so many places these days where such a list is unnecessary due to the proliferation of international eateries—and this is certainly true for Amsterdam. My sons and I sampled Thai, Japanese, Indonesian, and Etheopean while there, and none of these meals disappointed.

Still, it’s always a delight to find an all-vegetarian place to eat; I like to support that kind of business. Boelhoed (which means “bowler hat”—a phrase that truly has nothing to do with the restaurant) is a place the Dutch would surely describe as “gezellig,” or cozy, a term that can be used to describe much about all of Amsterdam. Walking in, I felt as if I were in Ann Arbor or Ithaca—you know, that funky, colorful college-town kind of atmosphere.

The servings were plentiful and the flavors hearty; the organic wine was nice; the service friendly (and as I mentioned, everyone seems to speak English very well); the cat adorable; and there are always a number of vegan desserts (we had one big meal there, but stopped three times for dessert for the boys). I won’t go into too much detail, as I hope to write a piece about Boelhoed for VegNews.

Boelhoed is located at Prinsengracht 62, near the Jordaan district. No credit cards accepted. Beware, a meal there can be pretty pricey (about 20 USD per person, not including beverages or desserts). Other well-known veg restaurants are Green Planet at Spuistraat 122, and Golden Temple at Ultrechtsestraat 122. I’m sure there are many others that are veg, organic, or veg-friendly. I can’t wait to go back! Now we know how to get around, where to shop for food (the markets, of course) and more places to eat.

In my previous post I took a break from my travel memories (already starting to feel like distant memories) to report on tonight’s dinner, but I do want to complete the posts on my European journey. Both yesterday and today, my son Evan asked when we could go back to Amsterdam. When, indeed? I’d go back in a heartbeat, but now I’ve got Prague and Venice on my “to-do” list.

While on the train from Amsterdam to Paris, I was chatting with a couple who recommended I check out the organic farm market in the Jordaan district; and luckily the market was a short couple of blocks from our hotel. Our first morning, I was able to stock up on a few things for our hotel room—fruits (both fresh and dried), breads, and snacks for our daily outings.

It seems to me that one might actually do most of the weekly shopping at a market like this. Aside from lots of great-tasting organic produce, there were oils, condiments, soy products, juices, breads, and cheeses. What was lovely is that I saw many people bring their own cloth shopping bags; and shopping this way reduced the reliance on packaged foods. Then, once the shopping is done, the groceries are attached to one’s bicycle. Such a green city! Bikes are the main transport, followed by electric trams. Even many of the tour boats on the canals run on some sort of green fuel.

In my last newsletter, I pondered the question of where Amsterdamers shop, since with all our walking and biking, we saw very few food shops. One reader responded, letting me know that the city’s residents indeed do a lot of shopping at the markets, and sending me this link. I’m not sure of the name of the particular market I visited (maybe nieuwmarkt), but it was on Prinsegracht, going toward central station, and is there on Saturdays from 9 am to 4 or 5 pm. It may be there other days of the week. Everyone speaks English extremely well, so if you visit, you’ll have no problem getting help asking for what you’d like at the market.

Here is an adorable vegetarian restaurant tucked into a narrow street not far from the Notre Dame cathedral on the left bank in Paris. Though it is not my favorite, my sons and I ate here twice, due to the convenience of its location and proximity to our hotel. It’s cozy and comfortable, and the food is quite serviceable. The service is friendly and it’s a lot of fun to sit outdoors and eat at 9:00 pm when things are busy and lively.

The way I would describe the food is homey and filling, the kind of meal you’d get if you had a kind old vegan grandmother. Their main focus, as in most of the other veg eateries, are assiettes, large platters with assorted goodies arranged on them. Their Assiette Seitan comes with a nicely done “schnitzel” of seitan; we were all in the mood for that the first time we dined there. The second time Evan and I ordered an assiette with polenta, which normally comes with cheese, but they topped it with a tangy tomato sauce for us. Adam had the Macro assiette, which featured little rounds of crisp tempeh. My friend Wendy and I ate here on an earlier trip, so I can at least say that the food is consistent.

The cooked vegetable side dishes that come with these platters are a bit overcooked, and for dessert one night we had the absolute worst vegan apple tart ever. Still, I can’t help but feel fondness for this little eatery; the vibes are good, the experience is fun, and the people who work there are nice.

If you look closely at the photo, you’ll see me in the center, with kind of a lavender top. With his back to the viewer is my son, Adam. Evan was taking the shot. Le Grenier de Notre Dame is at 18, Rue de la Bucherie in the 5th arrondissement.

I do want to recommend one more place that we stumbled upon for our last meal in Paris: Phyto-Bar & Restaurant Bio at 47, Blvd. Saint-Germain in the 5th Arrondissement. Their specialty is freshly made organic juice mixtures and wines; they don’t offer an extensive selection of food but what they did offer was very good, and the ambiance was lovely. Once again, the focus was on beautifully presented assiettes. Next to the restaurant is a little organic produce market and health food store. Sigh. I would love to spend about a month living in this neighborhood. I just love the Latin Quarter!